Before too much time passes I wanted to write about Easter here. In many ways it wasn’t much different than Easter in The States. Bolivia is a religious country, by some measures more religious than the US. You know there was a lot of Spanish influence here in the past. One of the clearest reminders of that is the prominence of Christianity all across Bolivia today. It’s the biggest organized religion in the country, 95% of Bolivians are listed as Roman Catholic by the CIA World Factbook. At least in this part of the country every small community has a church, which might only be used a couple times a year but generally sits at the community’s heart and is the most prominent building.
The interesting thing about religion here is how it has mixed and coexists with pre-Columbian beliefs.
The first few days I was here we celebrated the feast of the patron saint of Carmen Pampa, or the year’s biggest party. There was a mass and the celebration took place in the courtyard of the community’s church. At this festival I was taught to give the first sip of whatever you are drinking to Pachamama or mother Earth. The dirt in front of the church was soaked throughout the day and night by this custom, and by all accounts Pachamama should have at least been tipsy. Our patron saint Maria del Carmen stayed stone sober, as she wasn’t offered a drop.
It’s not just at festivals. Miners give alcohol, coca, and even blood to ensure safety and good luck. They might say Hail Maries on their way to work, but the respects they pay to Catholic figures are nowhere near as institutionalized or ingrained into their culture as the rituals they perform for more archaic deities.
Every year around the beginning of Lent the Bolivians do a Challa, which is the cleaning, decorating and blessing of homes businesses and public places. I helped my old boss Diego bless his computer lab. After the decorating we poured potable rubbing alcohol all over the floor and said prayers to God and Pachamama. When I come home for lunch the Sisters had done the same in their garden. I think I’ve heard them talk about Pachamama in positive ways. Certainly the idea doesn’t seem to bother them, I’ve never heard a negative word about it anyway.
Every year around the beginning of Lent the Bolivians do a Challa, which is the cleaning, decorating and blessing of homes businesses and public places. I helped my old boss Diego bless his computer lab. After the decorating we poured potable rubbing alcohol all over the floor and said prayers to God and Pachamama. When I come home for lunch the Sisters had done the same in their garden. I think I’ve heard them talk about Pachamama in positive ways. Certainly the idea doesn’t seem to bother them, I’ve never heard a negative word about it anyway.
I took the following picture at the church in Trinidad Pampa a man dressed in VERY traditional VERY pre-Christanity wearing a cross and looking quite reverant.
Anyway back to EASTER. The UAC masses are more traditional Catholicism, at least by Bolivian standards. It started with a bonfire lit in front of the church, then we all lit candles and marched into the dark building. It was really beautiful.
There weren’t too many students around, so most of the people who came were community members. The kids here are nuts and only sort of supervised. No extra fires started and only one kid did anything dangerous chasing his brother with a fiery stick. Easter miracle. Then we ate fried dough and drank Api, which is a thick purple drink made from corn and served hot, very good.
In Coroico they welcomed back hikers finishing the Choro, LIKE ME. There were dances and mass.
How's this last pic grab you for interesting cultural Conflicts. Bolivian Tourisim student rocking a Favre jersey looking at the same beautiful curch the above photo came from.
I hope all is well back home.
LOVE
andy
